Same job, different thickness
Walk down a moisturizer aisle and you will see lotions, creams and ointments, often in similar-looking containers. All of them aim to soften skin and reduce water loss. The main difference is how much water they contain compared with oils and waxes, and that changes how they feel, how long they last on the skin and how suited they are to different levels of dryness.
The categories are not strictly regulated in everyday shopping, so a product labeled “cream” may feel like a lotion, and the reverse. Texture and the ingredient list tell you more than the name.
Lotions: light and spreadable
Lotions generally contain a high proportion of water and a smaller amount of oils. They are thin enough to pour or pump, spread easily over large areas and absorb quickly.
They often suit:
- Normal skin or mildly dry skin.
- Warm or humid weather.
- Covering large areas quickly, such as arms, legs and torso.
- People who dislike a greasy feel or who are prone to body breakouts and want something lighter.
The tradeoff is that a lot of the water evaporates, and a lighter product may not last through the day on very dry skin. If you find yourself reapplying often, that is a sign you might need something thicker.
Creams: the middle ground
Creams usually contain a more balanced mix of water and oils. They are thicker than lotions, often come in a tub or a wide-mouth tube and feel richer on the skin.
They tend to suit:
- Moderately dry skin.
- Cooler seasons, when indoor heating and cold air dry skin out. The effects of winter skin care and indoor air come up often here.
- Areas that need more help, such as shins, elbows and hands.
Many people use a cream as their everyday body product in fall and winter and switch to a lotion in summer. That is a reasonable pattern rather than a rule.
Ointments: thick and protective
Ointments have the highest proportion of oils or waxes and little or no water. They are the thickest of the three and typically feel greasy, which can be unpleasant on large areas or under clothing.
What they do well is form a barrier layer on the surface that slows water loss. That is why they are often used on small, very dry or cracked areas such as heels, cracked hands and rough patches on the elbows. Because they sit on top of the skin, they can feel heavy and may stain fabric, so some people apply them at bedtime.
They are less common for everyday use over the whole body, and they may feel occlusive enough to be uncomfortable on skin that gets sweaty or breaks out easily. If you are prone to body acne, heavy products on the back and chest may not suit you.
Why ingredients matter as much as texture
Within each type, the formula varies. The idea behind most moisturizers can be described using three broad groups, covered in more depth in our explanation of humectants emollients and occlusives:
- Humectants attract water. Glycerin humectant ingredients are a common example, and hyaluronic acid works in a similar way.
- Emollients smooth and soften the surface by filling gaps between skin cells. Ceramide lipids are part of this idea, since they are naturally found in the skin barrier.
- Occlusives form a protective layer that slows evaporation. Petrolatum and various waxes are typical examples.
Lotions often lean on humectants and light emollients; ointments lean on occlusives. Creams combine more of each. A product containing all three types can work well across a range of dryness levels, but none of this guarantees a particular result for you.
Matching the product to the dryness
A rough guide, with the understanding that skin differs:
| Skin feel | Often suits |
|---|---|
| Normal, occasionally dry | Light lotion |
| Slightly tight after showering | Lotion or light cream |
| Visibly dry, flaky or itchy | Cream |
| Very dry, cracked or rough in spots | Cream overall, ointment on trouble spots |
The body is not uniform, so you may not need the same product everywhere. Shins and feet are often drier than the chest or upper arms. A combination, such as lotion for the torso and a thicker product for the lower legs, can be more comfortable and more economical than using the richest product everywhere.
Application tips
- Apply soon after bathing, when skin is still slightly damp, to help hold in water.
- Use enough to cover the skin with a thin, even layer. If it rubs in and leaves skin feeling tight within an hour or two, you may want something thicker or a second application.
- Rub gently in the direction of hair growth if you are prone to bumps around hair follicles.
- Let it absorb for a few minutes before dressing, especially with thicker products.
Fragrance and sensitive skin
Many body lotions are scented, and fragrance is a common cause of irritation for people with sensitive skin. If your skin itches or turns red after using a product, a fragrance-free option may be worth trying. Doing a patch test on a small area for a few days first is a sensible habit with any new moisturizer, as explained in our piece on patch testing. Reading product labels also helps you spot ingredients you already know bother you.
When a moisturizer is not enough
Dry skin that stays itchy, red, scaly or cracked despite regular moisturizing may be more than simple dryness. Conditions such as eczema basics and contact dermatitis can look similar at first. If moisturizing does not help, if the skin is painful or weeping, or if you are unsure what is going on, see a doctor or dermatologist. Results from any moisturizer vary, and no product can promise to fix a skin condition.